Step 1: Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the three top lines and the singular bottom line.
- Place the canister on a flat surface.
- Open the canister and remove the filter.
- Remove the top of the canister.
- Remove all four screws from inside of it, making sure to keep them organized (if you’re unfamiliar with what goes where, consult an exploded diagram).
Step 2: Remove the canister from the vehicle.
To remove the canister from under the vehicle, you will first need to locate it. The location of your canister may vary depending on your make and model of car, but in general it’s located near the front or rear driver’s side tire. You should be able to spot it by looking for a rubber hose that runs onto the frame where it connects with another tube that goes into a hole in the firewall behind the engine bay. If you’re having trouble finding it, ask a mechanic at your local garage for help!
Once you’ve found your canister and know where exactly it is located, use an 8mm socket wrench (or whatever size works best for removing nuts/bolts) and unscrew all four bolts holding down this part of your car’s system (there may also be other bolts holding things together like hoses).
It shouldn’t take too long since these are usually pretty easy-to-find bolts; once they’re removed take off whatever else is still attached such as brackets or clamps so everything comes apart cleanly without any sharp edges sticking out where they shouldn’t be sticking out (this could potentially cause more harm than good later on when trying again).
Step 3: Allow the air pressure in your compressor to reach 50 psi and then turn it off before inserting it into the canister.
Insert the hose into the canister and then attach a fitting. If you do not have a fitting, you can use a wood screw to hold the hose onto the canister.
Connected to the compressor, switch it on and allow it to run for two minutes until no more air escapes from your hoses or fittings.
Step 4: Insert the tip of the air compressor into the pipe that can be found at the top of the canister.
The pipe at the top of the canister is where you should insert the air compressor’s tip. It will appear larger than the other two pipes since it is the control valve pipe.
Step 5: Block off the openings of the other two pipes
To block off the two other openings, use a rag or a piece of cloth to plug each pipe. Duct tape or masking tape will do the trick nicely. You can also use corks if you want to be fancy about it, or plastic bags if you want to save some money on rags and tape.
Just make sure that no air is able to pass through any of these three openings while you’re cleaning your charcoal canister, because otherwise all your work (and your time) will have been for naught!
Step 6: Continue blowing air through the canister
Blow air through the canister until it is empty. It’s possible that you may need to do this multiple times. Make sure to block off the other two pipes so they don’t get sucked in and blow them out, too.
Also make sure that the air compressor is turned off before inserting it into the canister!
Step 7: Reinstall the canister and test drive to ensure everything is working as it should.
Once you’ve successfully cleaned the canister, reinstall it in your car and test drive to ensure everything is working as it should. Be sure to block off the other two openings with cardboard or something else that won’t allow air to escape from them.
After a few minutes of driving, stop at a safe location and open up your hood again. Remove the compressor from its mounting bracket and attach it directly to one of the ports on your canister.
This will allow you to blow air through the system without having any room for outside contaminants or moisture getting inside. If there’s no pressure built up yet, set time aside so that this happens during normal driving conditions before attempting another test drive.
Read more: How to clean a charcoal grill grate